Beach(a) By Golly Wow: Subic Beach (Matnog, Sorsogon)

Coming from Manila, Subic Beach in an island off Matnog, Sorsogon may be a beach too far. But if one's on a constant search for that beach with iconic fine white sand and clean/clear water, then, Subic Beach is it. Take note that this is Subic Beach in Matnog, Sorsogon NOT in Olongapo, so press the geography mode ON before going.

We braved the 10-hour night-time Cagsawa bus ride (Penafrancia, Isarog, Philtranco and other bus lines also ply the route) from Cubao to Legazpi City, which is our base. Then, add another 3-hour van ride from Legazpi to Matnog, Sorsogon and finally, a 20 to 30-minute motorboat ride, with eardrum busting engines, to Subic Beach from the shores of Matnog behind the public market and next to the ferry terminal. The 2-way boat ride set us back by PHP1,500 but that includes a sidetrip to Juag Fish Sanctuary. Charging is per boat not per passenger so I believe that it's reasonable. I don't remember being charged for setting foot on the island itself although most blogs say that the caretaker (the island is allegedly privately owned) collects from the visitors.


our motorboat, negotiating a narrow strip of seaway en route to
Subic Beach in an island off Matnog, Sorsogon; Matnog's pride can
be reached by passing through that small opening in the
background, turning right and going straight ahead



As we approached the island beach - noticing the water getting clearer, green island vegetation, tree-lined shore and glimmering white sand - we forgot all the distance we've traveled to make it here.

 

 This beach is for the adventurous and backpacker-type, definitely not for someone expecting the amenities of Boracay's Discovery Shores or Shangri-la or any other high-end resort.
In fact, it has no amenities to speak of, except for a row of tents and nipa cottages off the tree-lined shore. But what it lacks in amenities, it makes up for with abundant natural beauty, the rawness of it all, the privilege to be almost alone on the beach - no crowd jostling for space - and more importantly, no notorious summer lumot of Boracay.

By the way, before leaving the shores of Matnog, one should not forget to buy food provisions at the market (if no baon yet) - fresh fish to be grilled in the island  by the boatman (read: give tip later), a kilo or two of rice which the ate in the island can cook for only PHP20 and other things needed to survive and make the stay convenient somehow. But no worry, there is a small store in the island that sells sari-sari stuff but at a convenience store price (think 7-11 or Mini-stop).

In my case, I was okay with the banig I bought from the Matnog market for PHP100 which I rolled out on the sand to sit or lie down on.

the banig bought at Matnog public market; one can

also buy fresh fish and rice at the public market to be

grilled and cooked, respectively, in the island

As of now, nothing much can be expected except for the natural beauty God gave it when it was created. Its sand may not be as spectacular as Boracay's Station 1 but it can surely give Boracay's decadent Station 2 and Station 3 a run for its money, sand-wise. It's something like Kalanggaman Islet in Palompon, Leyte, or the Bohol and Bantayan Island beaches. But definitely, a notch higher than Bolinao's or Pagudpud's. That's as far as the comparison goes with reference to sand fine-ness and white-ness. But whereas Kalanggaman does not have a water source (one has to bring water to the island), Subic Beach has, assuring visitors of a decent wash up after a good dip. The water is potable for those with tough tummies but for those with sensitive ones, it is best to hold on to that precious bottle of mineral water like a baby does to his milk.

one can frolic in the beach and have a good tan 

 

or if one thinks that the sun is still too harsh, he/she can stay under the

shade and lull himself on a hammock or lie down on the mat rolled onto

the sand for optimum comfort

 

Subic Beach has striking similarities with Maira-ira cove in Pagudpud - it's a cove; and sorry to the romantics, it's not a sunset beach. And if Maira-ira is the northernmost decent beach in Luzon, Subic Beach is the southernmost fantastic beach in Luzon, already the gateway to Visayas and Mindanao. 

While there is talk of a planned development soon for a resort, it definitely will take sometime to get realized. Meanwhile, I like it the way it is - pure somehow, simple and beautiful with no trappings of being exorbitant and luxurious beyond afford.

water's so clear that one might not be able to hide

what she wants to hide :-)

 

Thanks to cousin Melan for taking us there and accommodating us in her Legazpi mansion as our base for our Bicol summer explore.