Lucban Look Back

I still remember my first time in Lucban in the early 90s. With good friends from law school, we went there to watch the colorful Pahiyas Festival with the traditional kiping in all shapes, colors and sizes and the bountiful harvests displayed in every home. Vividly etched in my mind are those of the church visit, our lunch at the nearby convent and of course the street march as we joined the parade. There was really not much time then to explore this old historic town in Quezon Province (established in 1578) whose streets would turn into a sea of humanity during the Pahiyas. After the celebration and merrymaking, my friends and I hurriedly left to get to the parking area located just outside the town center to catch our bus that will take us back to Manila.

This time around, after 2 decades, I drove to Lucban on a non-Pahiyas day via Nagcarlan, Liliw and Majayjay (all in Laguna Province). I wonder what Lucban would be like without the Pahiyas.  

Here are the highlights of my second visit:

Lucban Church. Also known as the Church of St. Louis of Toulouse. The marquee says that the first church was built in 1595 but was ruined in 1629; the second one was constructed between 1630-1640 but was seriously damaged in 1733; the present church was erected in 1738.

church facade, showing some intricate details of 4 engaged 

columns and triple balustrade on arched windows juxtaposed with

niche sculptures; 

pocket vegetation growing all over 

the facade adds up to an old natural finish 

church nave leading to the transept

colorful frescoes on the wall and on the narthex or vestibule

La Casa de Dona Ana. This stone house is grand by any standard. The casa's marquee says a lot about its interesting storied past.

Inside is the Dealo Koffee Klatch where one can find assorted

cakes, pastries and biscuits baked the old-fashioned way

I love the yema cake and the local biscuit they call senorita

Ven’s Puto Seko.  The funny thing with shops selling local delicacies is that each one claims to be the best and the original. My friend, who is from Lucban, vouched that Ven's puto seko is the original. And so that's where we went.

when eating puto seko, one needs to have a drink on hand

as it melts in the mouth and triggers some kind of a choking feel

Eker and Ely’s Longganisa. What's Lucban without the longganisa? Several stores sell the town's most famous item but I relied once again on the recommendation of my friend who says that the longganisa from Eker and Ely is the best. This store has become some sort of an institution, selling its delicious longganisa since 1958.

Aside from Lucban's yummy treats, there are interesting finds as one walks along the streets near the church. 

Left: abaca slippers from Albay; Right: pandan bags from Lucban

hats galore for rustic fashionistas

Patio Rizal Hotel. I just had to take a photo of this hotel because every time I try to book for a room during the Pahiyas, the lady on the other line would always say that the hotel has been fully booked since last year.

a couple of heritage houses with verandas and ventanillas

providing old charm

Kamay ni Hesus Church. After Lucban town proper on the way to Tayabas, one can pay a visit to this place where a huge replica of Jesus' image is perched on top of a hill. This is the church where the healing priest, Fr. Faller, does his healing sessions.

Kamayan sa Palaisdaan. This is where I had lunch, as recommended by my friend. This restaurant is located in Tayabas town, a short 10-minute drive from Lucban.

an ideal place for dining in this area; be careful when walking on 

the uneven bamboo poles; obviously stilettos are a no-no

     

ensaladang paco with sardines 

the paco or ferns are picked fresh from the river banks

sinugnug, a Tayabas delicacy

grilled tilapia simmered in coconut milk

spareribs barbecue

no need to worry about hands getting dirty,

one can wash hands at this banga (clay jar) 

with free-flowing water from a mountain spring

Even without the Pahiyas, Lucban is still worth a visit. With the mystic Mt. Banahaw as backdrop, over the years, it has retained its old charm and beauty. I simply enjoyed the leisurely walk along the streets near the church with plenty of delightful surprises along the way.