Out Of The Coverage Area . . . In Calaguas

To be sure, friends who called me over the weekend must have received this response: “The number you have dialed is either unattended or out of the coverage area. Please try or call later. The number you have dialed is either unattended or out of the coverage area. Please try or call later.” Then, toot . . . Or, SMS sent must have been undelivered and needless to say, unanswered.

For I was in Calaguas away from it all, beyond reach and no trappings of modern technology: no mobile telephony, no internet. In exchange, I got the beauty of a pristine beach of powdery white sand consistent from end-to-end coupled with crystal-clear water that can rival Boracay’s Station 1 sans the crowd, uncontrolled over-development and water sewage emptying out to the beach. For 3 days and 2 nights, I kept to my own world, clueless to the goings-on outside.

But where is Calaguas and how did I get there? Here are some quick and basic tips:

Getting There. I am a DIY person when it comes to defining my travels, whether here or abroad. But this Calaguas trip is so uncharacteristic of me as this is my first time to arrange everything through the power of text messaging.

When my cousin-in-law and I finally agreed on the dates for our respective families to go to Calaguas, which is a group of islands under Vinzons town in Camarines Norte 2 hours offshore by boat, she sent me an email about Byahe Adventours (+639272508522; +639157792222), one of the tour operators that caters to Calaguas guests, with the name and number of the contact person. Shortly afterwards, I started texting the person who gave me quick and precise instructions – i.e. deposit the tour package amount (PHP4,200 per person for 3d2n all in: transpo, “accommodation” and full-board) to a specific bank under the relevant account/name, keep the deposit slip and then bring it to DLTB bus terminal in Cubao on the chosen departure date.

As instructed, we went to the bus terminal wherein we met a certain RJ (CP: +63917 4320215), the person who I've been texting with. Such is the power of text and the speed of trust - simple but scary I must say. The 7 or 8-hour night time trip had us waking up at Vinzons town, getting off at its town hall for a short wait for the jeep that will take us to the Logport, jump off point to Calaguas. Getting to the Logport meant a butt-breaking humpy-bumpy 20-minute ride through a secondary road riddled with potholes from beginning to end. 

I’m glad that Byahe Adventours arranged for everything, instead of me talking and negotiating stressfully with the jeepney driver and later, the boat operator.

Left: DLTB bus, with wi-fi, that took us to Vinzons; Right: Logport, jump off point to Calaguas

Staying There. Camping out is the norm in Mahabang Buhangin, Calaguas Islands. We were provided with tents already pitched on the beach ready for us to lie down on. There is no established resort with air-conditioned rooms to share. Others even preferred to sleep on the beach itself, outside the tent, with just sleeping bags, beach towels or mats shielding them from the cool night wind.

we had lessons learned during our 1st camp out in Kalanggaman Islet between Cebu and Leyte; 

whereas before, we only used sleeping bags to cushion the tent "floor," this time around, we had

a sleeping bag, portable foam and fluffy comforter to simulate the comfort of home; 

our travel companions observed that ours was the most comfy tent; indeed it was

here's how the tent village by the beach looks like

Eating There. Dining was not a problem because our package was all inclusive – transpo, transfers, tent accommodation and food. Food was prepared by a chef no less, Chef Jangie (Ocoma) (CP: +63917 5276480) of Lakwatserong Kusinero fame who whipped up delicious dishes for each and every meal. Though “accommodation” is camping mode (i.e. with the usual de lata or instant noodles), Chef Jangie’s philosophy defies it with his 3 entrees each meal, presented buffet style. This CSB-educated HRM major and CCA-trained chef reigns supreme not just in the hot kitchen but also outside of it - a mixologist, fire dancer, an all-around performer. One can also catch him playing volleyball or frisbee with guests during his free time. All these on top of his being a restaurant owner in his hometown, Lucban, Quezon. Certainly one of the most multi-talented and multi-skilled persons I have ever met.

Chef Jangie in the kitchen with some of his instant fans

There are small sari-sari stores selling basic stuff, the farthest that one’s shopping can go.

  

Bathing There. Swimming in the crystal-clear waters of Mahabang Buhangin is unlimited but after-swim wash up is a challenge. A couple of toilets and bathrooms will do the trick, but no shower. One does it the classic way – the perfect and inseparable match of balde (pail) and tabo (dipper). Bathe inside the bathroom of thatched nipa for a roof and bamboo shingles for a wall. There is no faucet inside the toilet or bath – one has to fetch water from the balon or artesian well nearby. Local beach residents accept PHP10 for each pail of water pumped out of the well and delivered to one’s toilet or bath.

But lines can be long and the wait, longer. Another option is to bathe near the artesian well itself.

looking pretty much like the provincial poso of my childhood

Although Calaguas has water sources, it does not have electricity. Tour operators address this concern by using generators that run from 6 PM to 12 MN only.

Nightlife. Definitely no Boracay-type nightlife but the tour operator can provide some semblance of it. In our case, Byahe Adventours injected some elements into the after-dinner program such as mixology which Chef Jangie himself did and fire dancing with Chef Jangie again joined in by his friend, Star. Open bar followed after the session on mixology whereby guests had the chance to mix their own drinks. 

Chef Jangie mixing spirits, liquors, etc. assisted by one of the guests,

 who worked as bartender in the US 

guests sampling Chef Jangie's out-of-the-kitchen but

on-bar concoctions

But how’s the beach? Let the pictures speak for themselves. Hazard alert though: given the fine white sand and crystal-clear water, anything strange can be easily spotted. One such thing is the button-sized jellyfish which can be seen gliding by occasionally. But overall, still a pleasant swimming experience.

the refreshing sight that welcomes guests upon arrival

except for some footprints, the beach most especially that 

area wherein the sea meets the sand, is spotlessly clean

it only takes a cardio-heavy trek to see this breathtaking view

i love this southern side of the beach; not much people

my favorite corner of the beach to catch sunrise

cool !!! a beach bum carabao !!! huts in the background are Calaguas'

counterpart to Boracay's Waling-Waling which can be rented for 

PHP3,000 per hut per night for a maximum of 6 pax 

perigargan moment on the way back to Vinzons

Other special interests. Water sports activities are available for a fee like kayaking, banana boat ride, etc. 

Thanks everyone.

Tagaytay Food Trip

On lazy weekends with nothing much to do, Tagaytay can easily be on one’s top-of-mind for a food trip for several reasons: (1) it’s a quick and smooth drive from Metro Manila; (2) it has plenty of decent choices; and (3) it has a relatively cooler weather compared to the metro. There can be other reasons for sure.

I had foreign and local guests I brought to Tagaytay on separate days very recently. My dilemma prior to the trips was this: if I bring them to Antonio’s, Sonya’s, Marcia’s, Josephine’s, Leslie’s, Taalena, Buongiorno, Gourmet’s Café, Amoroma, Bag of Beans, etc., the trips would have no value-add to me personally.  Since I wanted something new for ourselves, these are the places we went to:

Nurture Spa Village. For the longest time, my impression of this place is that it is solely for wellness (detox, body scrub, massage, etc.), not much as a culinary destination which it actually is. And since food is part of wellness, I took my chance and inquired if my guests and I could just drive in and eat. No sooner had the lady on the other line said yes than we started hitting the road already. We had late lunch here but we did not choose the wellness food for no particular reason. It has a lush garden that not only allows for relaxing walks but also provides excellent backdrop for picture-perfect moments. From the main road (that road leading to Batangas), look for Magallanes Square (right across Leslie’s, Starbuck’s, Yellow Cab, etc), then turn right on Magallanes Drive, go straight down the road and turn left immediately before hitting the dead end.  

adobo - its gentle sourness can leave one salivating a bit

guinataang pork binagoongan - menu says that it is 

stewed in coconut milk, chilli and shrimp paste

verdant garden for relaxing walks; well-furnished tents are used for glamping

(a.k.a glamorous camping)  

a cute pool for a refreshing dip under the shade

Joaquin’s Bed & Breakfast. Thanks to an officemate for this. She had her usual Sunday jog in nearby Nuvali after which, took her breakfast here and posted a status update on fb with a matching photo. I like the homey privacy that the B&B provides, a far cry from the touristy feel of the nearby Cliffhouse. We had coffee and dessert here after our lunch in Nurture Spa Village. Both my foreign and local guests were raving about its coffee. Me, I like the turon halo-halo. A plus factor of the B&B is the front seat view of the Taal Lake and Volcano. It’s along the main road, same side as Cliffhouse but just a few meters farther, way past the Petron gas station by the corner of the main road and Mahogany Drive.

i was craving for halo-halo but there was none; i was offered

instead turon halo-halo which is really halo-halo in lumpia 

wrapper but without the shaved ice and evaporated milk

the deck affords a spectacular view of the Taal Lake and Volcano 

the sight of the lake and volcano provides a perfect moment 

whether for one's regular meal or for coffee, tea or dessert 

Mahogany Meat Market.  Dining here is hawker style a la Singapore and Malaysia. Let hair down and just choose any of the canteens or carinderias. Not ordering its fresh and hearty bulalo and crispy tawilis is like not having been to the meat market at all. From the main road, make a right on Mahogany Drive, go straight ahead and drive past the intersection. The market is on the right side of the road.

Left: delightful showcase of Filipino food; Right: meal comes with these cute bananas

what is a Mahogany Meat Market meal without this bulalo?

crispy both, baby tawilis (left) and crablets (right)

Baguio Vignettes (or, How Not To Starve in Baguio)

Time was when Baguio to me meant Burnham Park (boat ride), Mansion House (inside-the-compound-but-behind-the-gate-only photos), Good Shepherd (ube jam, alfajor cookies, etc), Mines View Park (throw monies that kids deftly recover), Wright Park (horseback riding), Botanical Park (photo op with natives who charge professional fees), public market (panic buys of strawberries, vegetables, bling-blings, walis, etc), and, leisurely strolls up and down Session Road hoping to encounter serendipity.

Despite these, I never did have any Baguio overload. I still keep coming back to it to explore even more. I guess that happens when something or someplace becomes so much a part of oneself, not wanting to let it go.

As life moves in phases, my Baguio visits of late are basically targeted towards opting for what I think are nice-to-go places that allow for a good hang out, pig out and chillax rolled into one.

Here’s some: 

Baguio Country Club (BCC) - Raisin Bread Cafe. For early morning trips to have one's fresh juice, coffee, tea or choco paired with its iconic - but what else? - raisin bread. Members and their guests only :-) 

Left: waiting for our orders; Right: their early morning loot of raisin breads and more

BCC - Veranda. Ideal for lunch or dinner buffets. Best to reserve, as  members and guests subtly compete with each other for space and food. We normally have our Christmas lunch here. 

L: Cheers during Christmas lunch; R: BCC building and golf course in the background

BCC - Hamada. If one is going Japanese in Baguio, this is the place to be, at least for me. Being my favorite in BCC, this is where I go to for teppanyaki dinners. It is here in Hamada that one truly feels exclusivity as a badge of privilege. My dinners here have so far been memorable - first, when our President & CEO treated me and our other managers about 10 years ago; second, when we had our family dinner during Christmas of 2012. 

L: getting ready, aprons on; R: the chef doing some tricks prior to preparing our food

L: hmn, scrumptious; R: food is ready

Camp John Hay Manor. The surroundings are reminiscent of the Baguio of old - lush pine trees, wide expanse of greenery in rolling terrain. CJHM grounds virtually become a little wonderland during Christmas time with colorful displays and trees bedecked with lights. By my experience though, Christmas buffet here is not on par (sorry, I am not using "at par" anymore after hearing a lot of major international anchors of repute use "on par") with BCC's. We normally pick up from our loss here by going to BCC for the next big meal.

BenCab Museum and Cafe Sabel. Casual dining after a large dose of Cordillera art. Marvel upon the National Artist's creations and those of his artsy friends. Get to know "Sabel" the iconic muse of BenCab and "Sabel" the cafe, for refreshments after an overload of arts and culture. Along Asin Road, off Baguio City proper.  

Cordillera Art 101; getting to know Sabel, BenCab's iconic muse; appreciating heritage

viewing more of BenCab's collections

Cafe Sabel; the view outside is just a bonus

Ketchup Food Community.  A recent addition to the Baguio food scene, adjacent to Wright Park. Has several restaurants to choose from, which are pretty good alternatives to the oft-beaten dining places. I'm ok for a return visit to this place to try the other restos.

Happy Tummy, one of the many restaurants in Ketchup Food Community

Little John's. My nephew told me that this is owned by the family of the then Senator Juan Flavier. Apparently, my nephew's friend who is in turn a nephew or I think apo of Senator Flavier told him so. I don't have an independent confirmation of this ownership though. At any rate, I credit the place for value-for-money food. Have been here for more than a couple of times. Located right below Camp John Hay Manor.

Little John's, inside Camp John Hay; value-for-money

Choco-Late de Batirol. With its bohemian vibe, a nice place to hang out in, after meals. Used to like this place very much but I don't know, I got to realize that our tablea tsokolate in Leyte is so much better than the tsokolate that this place offers. My last visit also had me eating some soggy suman. This is inside Camp John Hay and easier accessed through the gate on the Baguio Country Club side.

Casa Vallejo. The place is a throwback to 1909 when Casa Vallejo was established. Located on a cliff side road below SM City Baguio and above Court of Appeals. Has a nice deli that sells honey, sardines, sauces, among others. Parking is challenging and exciting and feels similar to the steepest drop of Enchanted Kingdom's log jam. Go park there.

Looked like a derelict before but has recently been renovated and transformed

into a quaint bed-and-breakfast with an old-world-feel 

Cafe By The Ruins. An old favorite and infinitely reliable. It does not have the ruins feel and vibe anymore from the time a hotel stood right beside it. The humongous hotel wall replaced the sight of ruins we used to see from the cafe.

at Cafe by the Ruins; i simply love its camote bread which i 

down with salabat and honey

PNKY Cafe. Unanimously, our favorite for its delish food, nice ambiance and a good location. Has free wi-fi as well which is definitely a big plus. Just like Casa Vallejo, it's got a nice deli selling honey, jams, etc. One thing not to miss here is its crunchy ube jam. During our December 2012 Baguio visit, we were in PNKY Cafe 3 or 4 times. It's such a lovely place. We will be back.

taking advantage of PNKY Cafe's free wi-fi connection

ingenious use of scrabble tiles as labels is quite impressive

Easter Weaving Room (Baguio City)

Having been to Baguio countless times, trying something new poses a big challenge as everything becomes staple (read: boring and monotonous) after a while. My recent Baguio trip (December 2012) was made different by Easter Weaving Room (EWR). I was looking for good tribal weaves but the public market didn’t attract me enough. I was in luck when I went online and came across this ethnic gem.

observing the lady with her multiple looms; most indigenous 

weaving "technologies" only have double or triple looms; 

easter weaving room is famous for its multiple looms 

resulting in stronger, tighter and much better weaves

amazing how they insert the yellow, blue and other 

streaks into the dominant red

Quoting from the EWR brochure: "Almost a century ago, as a missionary trekked the trails of Igorot land in Northern Philippines x x x little did we know that a traditional way of life which soon fascinated him would, in a few decades, capture the fondness and hearts of the Western world and eventually the rest of Asia - hand weaving! x x x Today, the Easter Weaving Room continues to preserve the Cordillera culture, particularly the weaving heritage, by serving as an instrument in promoting native handicrafts and providing a home for the enhancement of indigenous Igorot skills. x x x The growth and influence of EWR remains evident in homes not only in the Philippines but also countries all over the world - US, Japan, Guam, Italy, China, Saudi Arabia, Germany and others."

Indeed, EWR’s quality weaves have found their way to Baguio Country Club and Camp John Hay Manor.

the footwork has to be in sync with all the 

hand movements and the loom operation; 

simply admirable

this lady had to comb the threads for 

an even and polished finish

the manual dexterity and skill required are 

tremendous; the weavers have been into 

weaving for about 15 years; constant challenge 

is how to pass this on to the next generations 

who are not really keen on doing the same 

and sharing the same passion

I patronize EWR in support of cultural heritage.  EWR is guaranteed of my return visits and for sure, I’ll buy more items during my future trips to the summer capital.

miguel got this backpack with a pair of espadrilles to 

match it with; he'll showcase this in singapore :-); 

actually he wanted to buy a sagada weave backpack 

but the ones we found in sagada weave store in SM 

are not as nice

bought this jacket of cordillera weave; 

just love it - worn during our christmas

dinner at camp john hay manor

Website:  www.easterweaving.com

Address : No. 2 Easter Road, Guisad, Baguio City